Belkin | TuneCast | – Belkin Tunecast II FM Transmitter Mod. Home Sign Up! Explore Community Submit All Art Craft Food Games Green Home. I’m using a Belkin Tunecast II, with the longer antenna mod, and the quality of the audio is terrible. The coverage is not too bad, but its full of. the Belkin tunecast 2 FM transmitter can be modified to extend the transmit range. It can put out over milliwatts of RF power and be heard.
|Published (Last):||21 May 2008|
|PDF File Size:||8.29 Mb|
|ePub File Size:||5.43 Mb|
|Price:||Free* [*Free Regsitration Required]|
Attribution Non-commercial Share Alike by-nc-sa. How to gut the TuneCast. What you would see in your brandnew TuneCast, the ‘Before’. How to boost the FM Transmission power.
How about a longer audio cable? Now to remove the TuneCast auto-power down. Modding the case to fit the switch. Just tunecaast prove that everything still works and fits snugly!
Attribution Non-commercial Share Alike by-nc-sa Intro: It is only earlier this year that FM transmitters like these became legal in the UK, ignoring the fact that savvy netizens have already tuencast theirs from eBay. This modification improves the transmission range and remove the ‘feature’ of auto-power down when no audio signal is present.
It certainly sets you up as resident pirate radio DJ of your block and allows you to jam the loud radio listener on a bus or train!
Please note that this is a rehash of something that was done before ‘instructable’ came along. No more the delay now for the good stuff! How to gut the TuneCast Those ever efficient Taiwanese manufacturer manage to secure this piece of gadget with just a single screw, if you’re handy with a screwdriver, that’s the job done! The first image shows the location of the screw ignore the switch for the moment, that comes laterthe second one shows where to a gentle pry will open it, note the plastic latch.
Battery power inputs 3.
Belkin Tunecast II mod | Headphone Reviews and Discussion –
What you would see in your brandnew TuneCast, the ‘Before’ Here’s a series of photos of the same TuneCast, thankfully with everything still attached. Audio Left Channel, ‘Tip’ Yellow: Audio Right Channel, ‘Ring’ Black: Here’s where the transistor to keep the TuneCast on without the presence of a audio signal 3. The pesky inductor that attenuates the transmission power output http: How to boost the FM Transmission power Well Not to boost the power, more like removing the attenuation.
This step involves a bit of handy soldering which may be a bit tricky. Should you dare proceed, the procedure is easy enough, simply bypass the tiny inductor. If you refer to the previous step, you would have notice a blue wire soldered to the PCB via hole, conveniently labeled ‘ANT’, remove this and stick it directly to where the black wire is on the photo below, the inductor can be left connected to one end, just in case you wish to revert the changes.
Now if you wish to take it further, get a telescopic antenna! I have devised a neat way of attaching the antenna, see second photo. If you live in the UK, Maplin Electronics www. Inductor to bypass 2. Reattached antenna wire here 3. Unsolder blue wire from here Image Notes 1.
– Belkin Tunecast II FM Transmitter Mod |
A screw-on fitting for telescopic antenna step 5: Yup, the TuneCast has a really weedy short audio cable, not very nice if you decide to place the FM transmitter by the window, so your neighbor 4 floors down can listen to your collection of the latest break-beats! The solution is to replace the stereo plug with a plug that is small enough to still fit the TuneCast package. The photo below shows the new tinecast plug add-on feature, if you’re doing the modification, do note the correct channel, refer to the photo in step 3 for the correct connections.
The white wire is the ‘tip’ of the plug, which is the left channel, the yellow wire connects to the ‘ring’ or middle bit of the plug, which is the right channel, the black wire is the ground. Suitable stereo socket can also be found in Maplin Electronics. Now to remove the TuneCast auto-power down Basically the TuneCast automatically power down when there’s no audio signal for about a minute, this is great since the number of transmission channel is limited, not so great when you are flipping through your 60GB of music selection tunecaat for right song and then a blast of static comes on!
This step is a bit trickier, it involve adding a switch, a resistor and some wiring. The idea works by biasing up the bit that turns on the TuneCast when a audio signal is present.
Although the transmitter is battery powered, many of the ICs on the device requires a higher operating supply voltage, this is done with a boost converter, boosting its internal supply to around 5V, where it is kept permanently ‘on’, which partly explain why your TuneCast is dead after a few days even if you’re not using it, pretty dismal, but great for this modification!
Note on the photo below, the two point in which the wires are attached is where you need to modify incidentally, this is at the top right end of the PCB, on the LCD side. The second image is a drawing of the circuit connection. As promised, with this feature allows you to ‘swamp-out’ a typical commercial FM station within 2 to 3 meters of the transmitter and enjoy the peace and quiet.
Not dramatic but enough to convulse the listener into fiddling with the radio tuner.
Point A, top left ‘leg’ of SMD transistor 2. Point B, boosted supply voltage http: Modding the case to fit the switch Now that you have done the tricky bit, here’s the horrible bit! Wedging a tiny switch into the TuneCast casing. With a fair bit of filing and drilling, the end result is show in the photos below.
What you would have done if you had dare ventured! To take it further, you can make a plastic clip mount with a mini-camera tripod and you have your own FM base station! I couldn’t find the inductor so I soldered the antenna to one of the legs of the transmitter chip which seemed to be producing the signal. Will this produce the same result or have I made a mistake?
I can’t see the equivalent components to bypass the auto shut down either. How is it holding the transmitter? The antenna mod is great, but it’s not much more money and a lot less work to just use a headphone extension cord for this part.
Dumping the cable and installing a socket is the best mod you can do. Other then that, it’s a pretty nice mod. I was able to complete the mod and it did dramatically improve the output of my Tunecast greatbut for some reason, I’m only getting the Left channel no sound from my Right speaker even thought the “stereo” light is lit on my receiver noting it detects a stereo signal.
And yes, the speaker plays fine when switched to regular radio. I’m also getting enough “hiss” to be annoying no matter what station I choose. Anyone have any ideas? And how is the inductor “bypassed”? Do you cut one of the leads or run a wire around it? After blowing up the photos, it appears you soldered a bridge between where the inductor was connected to the left ‘L6’ contact the two L6 contacts do not appear to have been bridgedwhere you also connected the external antenna the internal antenna does not appear to have been reattached.
If I’m mistaken, someone please let me know. One, Amtel Eprom and one Toshiba with programm and up down 88 – See the youtube video how to convert this transmitter! My only problem so far is getting the damn thing open. Unlike the Belkin this thing has no screw and I had a hell of a time trying to pry it open without success.
Has anyone here managed to open one of these? If so, how did you go about it? I have a similar unit. Mine is made by iWave though. The gray bezel around the front comes off and the screws are under there. My board was different but I could still locate the attenuating inductor just above the antenna solder joint. I am still playing with defeating the auto power off on mine, when I have some luck I will post an instructable here.
I have since got another model with a screw and have opened it up. Yet to do any mods as other projects are more urgent.
Belkin Tunecast II mod
I don’t have them, but the spaces for them are under my bezel. I see a 29dB improvement ferralll says: Now, I can beat out most of the non major local stations! What I did if any one wants to know I used a good soldering iron, and some VERY thin gold wire did at work under a microscope and just made a shunt around the Inductor that you ripped out ripped up.
It works great, and turned it from almost useless, to very effective. I am now trying to do it to my brother in-laws Belkin Beelkin.
If I get the chance, I will post pictures. The unit really does need this hack though because the range is pants. UK Wish I had smaller fingers – I would do this one Where I live there is a station on all four of the presets, now I can use it on any of them. I get about five to ten feet around the transmitter. This is my first upgrade using instructables, but not my last.
Your one limitation now would be battery life. You can solve this by getting one of those cheap AC converters that outputs 3 volts DC. But good idea tho. I have included a picture of it. But as my German is superrusty, I don’t really understand where to solder the antenna.